Boxy Shelves in Alcoves

Boxy Shelves in Alcoves
The boxy shelves in the alcoves in the kitchen are coming along nicely. I've extended the shelving to go all the way over to the left hand side wall, so it creates a lowered ceiling at the entranceway. I boxed in above this doorway shelf to hide the wonky doorframe behind. All of a sudden, everything looked nice and level.


Boxy Shelves in Alcoves
All that's left now to do with these shelves is to trim the fronts, possibly with dinted copper, fill in the edges with flexible filler using a gun and varnish them. As they're oak, I think they will match the design. If, once finished, I decide they don't match, it will be easy to paint them.

More to come on these alcove shelves!





DIY Woodwork



DIY Woodwork - anyone can do it!

Yes, anyone can make things out of wood - you do not need to be a professional carpenter. Having said that, I wish I had done woodwork at school with the boys rather than housecraft because I would know a lot more than I do. If only they'd not all stared at me - the only girl in the class - I would have stuck it out for longer than one lesson!

Despite never having been taught woodwork, I somehow manage to get by and have made and renovated many things. In the video above, you can see the alcove shelves I made recently. They're not finished yet as they need to be trimmed at the front. I'm going to do the same on the lefthand side of the chimney breast.


DIY Woodwork 

I decided to create a stud wall on the left rather than have tapered off shelving. All you have to do to make a stud wall is assemble a rectangle out of wooden batons and cover it with board. This stud wall will support the shelves as well as the worktop. I'll add horizontal batons to the wall when I'm making the shelves. I screwed this framework to the wooden beam on the ceiling and to the wall, checking where the cables are first. I've blown myself up once - never again!


DIY Woodwork 

I don't have a workbench other than this table and I don't have anything to help me cut things straight or align things at right angles. I just use my eye. One thing I couldn't do without though is a spirit level because your eye needs a bit of back-up with bigger things. Of course, it does help to have a little dog supervise your work.

After hand-sawing the baton to the correct sizes, I drilled pilot holes and glued and screwed at all together.


DIY Woodwork 

Two clamps fixed to the baton and table are indispensable for this job.


DIY Woodwork 

One tip when fixing baton to a wall for shelving is to first drill pilot holes into the wood with a thin wood bit. Align to your straight line, which you create with a spirit level, and drill through one hole (the right in this instance) to make a mark on the wall. Change drill bits to a thicker masonry bit, drill your first hole, plug and secure the baton to the wall. Then get the baton perfectly level using your spirit level and drill through the other holes using a thin bit to make a small mark on the wall. Change to the bigger masonry bit again and drill the other holes, plug and fix to the wall. It's more work this way but it ensures a perfectly level baton and also eliminates the risk of misaligned holes.

More DIY woodwork to come.....



Old Quarry Tiles


Have you discovered old quarry tiles in your period property?

Find out what I chose to do with mine...

The living room floor of this Victorian house had been raised by a 10cm concrete slab. As the next door underfloor cupboard has an original slate slab floor, I suspected there might be slate under the slab. Using a chisel drill, I dug down through the slab in three places and found the original floor, which I assumed was also slate. However, when my builder removed all of the slab, we uncovered black and red quarry tiles. This was a disappointment as they're not to my taste and not in great condition having lost their surface and become quite badly chipped.


Old Quarry Tiles 

Those are the offending tiles and, to the right, is the back of the living room where the underfloor heating pipes will run in a concrete slab to the dining room, which now has a new slab. 

I could have had the living room and dining room floors completely dug out and replaced with Kingspan, underfloor heating and a concrete slab, just as I've had done in the kitchen. However, I wanted the living room to be different as it will have an open fire and it also has no windows. I also wanted a portion of my ground floor to be breathable. As the walls in period property generally do not have damp proof courses in them, moisture can rise up them if it can't escape through the floor.


Old Quarry Tiles 

As I didn't like the old quarry tiles but did want the majority of the living room floor to be breathable, I either needed to replace the tiles with another type of stone or cover them with something else. I considered covering them with a breathable and permeable epoxy resin but I didn't want to risk creating one massive cleanup task should it not adhere to my damp tiles. I considered laying sliced pebble mosaic using a lime based mortar and grout, but it would have been expensive and there was no guarantee the pebbles would remain fixed forever. Normal floor tiles would pop off in time due to not being breathable and moisture rising up through the quarry tiles. 

So, I looked at replacing the tiles with another breathable material. Natural stone was the obvious choice but it would have had to have covered the entire living room and dining room to have looked right, and it would have cost a few thousand pounds. Forget that.....this is House Fairynot the Fairy Godmother!

Back to the pebble idea I went, but found nice river pebbles were very expensive....£27 per 25kg bag for green Japanese pebbles! I knew they would look good bedded flat side up into lime mortar, they would be breathable and I would be able to create a cobbled floor in the middle of the living room and have a tiled border. But the cost!


Green River Pebbles 

Low and behold, I found a one tonne bag of unwanted green river pebbles for sale for £80! I'm now awaiting their delivery and dreading getting started on creating this very risky cobbled floor. I have never done it before and just hope I have made the right decision.

Watch this space!





Subsidence in Period Property

Subsidence in Period Property 
Subsidence in a period property is a terrifying thing, especially if it occurs suddenly. I'd only owned my Victorian house for a few weeks when a wall started to cave in. My builder had started to remove the concrete slab in the kitchen when one wall started to crack and heave into the room.
Subsidence in Period Property 
There was a deep gap between the floor ground and the wall footings, very much like a ravine cut into a mountain by millennia of water erosion. And water erosion it proved to be in the form of decades of leaking water from the old galvanised mains water pipes.
Subsidence in Period Property 
A galvanised pipe ran from the external stopcock just outside my front door, which steps out onto the pavement. Presumably, the pipe leading up to the stopcock also has leaks, increasing the water level directly outside my house. This pipe is also going to be replaced, meaning the pavement and halfway across the road needs to be dug up, and a nearby street lamp needs to be removed.

Gosh, the neighbours will love me!
Subsidence in Period Property 
That is a metal brace my heroic builder had made late at night to stop my wall from collapsing. There was a delay in getting started on the underpinning because my insurance company quibbled about covering the work. They claimed it was the responsibility of the previous owner's insurer due to an industry-wide agreement. After a lot of messing about, they finally accepted responsibility as a change of ownership cancels this agreement. Had I owned the property for a while and had just changed insurer, my previous insurer would cover subsidence that had been caused previously but only recently been discovered.
Subsidence in Period Property 
This is the hole outside my front door that was dug out to reveal and replace the stopcock, which was also leaking. The water company wanted to fill in this hole before it had been confirmed there were no more leaks. They only left when I threatened to get in the hole if they tried to fill it. It's lucky I scared them off as an old drain pipe had, indeed, been smashed and was leaking water into the hole.

How many leaks!
Subsidence in Period Property 
A few days passed after the subsidence started as I fought with the insurance companies. In that time, I read everything I could on the internet about subsidence in period properties. I even phoned an expert on the subject, who very kindly gave me half an hour of his time. Underpinning is the last resort for period properties because it's very invasive and creates a very rigid foundation to a previously flexible structure. As period properties were designed to move and were built with flexible, permeable and breathable materials, such as lime, great big blocks of solid concrete could upset the wobbly equilibrium. Usually, however, subsidence is a gradual thing and can be monitored over time and treated gently. However, my subsidence was an emergency situation and even the metal brace wasn't going to stop it from falling down, with potentially catastrophic consequences for not only my house but my two neighbours' houses as well.
Subsidence in Period Property 
My builder turned up at 6am with three strong men to get started on the daunting task of underpinning five meters of wall. The dark cold scene and their dark clothing and somber mood was reminiscent of grave diggers in a cemetery. The first day was terrible: I sat upstairs with my daughter, hardly able to breath due to anxiety, and waited for news, loud bangs, cracks, wobbling, screams and total callapse.

I really should have had a whiskey!
Subsidence in Period Property 
The men had to dig down until they reached solid ground, which they did between one and two meters down. The deepest hole was, of course, at the front door.
Subsidence in Period Property 
The builder removed a triangle of wall bricks, the area that had caved in, and rebuilt it. It's been a few months since this happened and the wall is doing well. The diagonal cracks that had appeared higher up and further away from the 'epicenter' did expand at first, but they've not grown bigger than about 4mm.

Experiencing subsidence in a period property is one of the worst things a person could go through. The thought of your house falling down is terrifying and, even after the problem has been fixed, your sense of equilibrium will be shot. For weeks after it happened, I felt as though I was falling over no matter where I was in the house. I became paranoid about existing cracks and worrying they were suddenly enlarging. Probably the best advice is to stay at a relative's house until all the work is completed, or just drink whisky!

I'm lucky in that these major leaks were discovered at the outset of my renovation project and before I'd carried out any work or spent any money. There was no sign of either a water leak or subsidence when I viewed the house. The floor covering needed replacing but no-one, not even a surveyor, would have known it was acting like an eggshell and hiding a soaking and cavernous secret.

If you're reading this post because your house is subsiding, you have my sympathy. However, you will get through it, your house will most likely be absolutely fine and you will be stronger because of it.


DIY Alcove Shelving


DIY Alcove Shelving


House Fairy in action building DIY alcove shelving in the kitchen of a badly neglected Victorian house in Herefordshire, England. I used wood batons as supports and leftover oak ply to box in above and below. I fitted the lefthand baton first, then the right, then the back/front and middle. The ply was glued and screwed. The front will be neatened off and eventually trimmed, possibly with dimpled copper. These shelves are super strong and cost next to nothing to make.

DIY Alcove Shelving 

To see the next post on this project click HERE.





Vintage Cupboards As Kitchen Units




Vintage Cupboards as Kitchen Units

Using vintage cupboards as kitchen units makes a lot of sense on many levels: cost saving, eco-friendly, individual, high quality, dramatic, etc.

I'm going to create a freestanding kitchen and mostly use vintage cupboards that I will revamp. Vintage cupboards can be picked up for next to nothing, are often made of solid wood, have lovely decorative features and can help to create a unique look on the tightest of budgets.

There is no rest for the wicket at the weekend but there is a little help from my daughter. She is lightly sanding a vintage cabinet picked up for £20. I've removed the legs as it's going to be a wall unit holding small crockery. I've already put one coat of cream paint onto it and think the second coat will be spring green, finished off with a light touch of hand applied warm gold to the edges.

There is no design in mind....this kitchen is just going to develop bit by bit.

More posts to come on turning vintage cupboards into kitchen units.



Vintage Sideboard Kitchen Sink Unit

Vintage Sideboard Kitchen Sink Unit
A great upcycling idea!

This is going to be my kitchen sink unit. It was, of course, a sideboard - picked up for £50....what a bargain! I managed to find the perfect ceramic sink from our nearby builder's merchant and, as it was an ex-display pieces, got it half price. So lucky! It's perfect for the sideboard because it has a lip at the back, which will push up against my tiled wall.

I removed the top of the sideboard and took out the drawers. I then removed the drawer fronts and glued them back into the holes. Then, I had to carefully remove areas of the sideboard to accommodate the sink. The sink was initially going to drop into the sideboard and catch on the outer walls, but that would have required a lot of cutting away and potentially weakening the structure. So, as the sink seemed happy to sit on a solid level (the drawer shelf), I decided to leave it there. That, however, meant there was a gap under the sink...as seen in the photo. After much contemplation, I decided the best solution was to slot in some hardwood, routed off to form a nice rounded edge. It will stick out a couple of inches, which I think will look good protect the edge of the sink from clangs.

I'm going to lightly rub down the sideboard to reveal its natural oak colour, which is lighter than its current colour. Had I bought a sink unit like this, made in solid wood, it would have cost me thousands, so I'm very happy I decided to do things differently.